Nintendo Switch repair, diagnosed before it's quoted.

Joy-Con drift repair starts at $35, general maintenance is $49.99, USB-C charging port repair is $69.99, and charging IC repair is $89.99. Those prices are the same across Switch, Switch Lite and Switch OLED. Battery, screen, dock and game-card repairs are quoted after the free diagnostic, because the parts differ enough by model and severity that a single number would mislead you. The diagnostic is always free and you approve the price before any work starts.

Battery replacement is quoted after a free diagnostic, for two reasons. The cell differs between Switch, Switch Lite and Switch OLED, so there isn't one price. And a console that dies quickly isn't always a battery problem — it can be a charging-port or charging-IC fault that never fully fills the cell. We test battery health and the charging path first, so you don't pay for a battery that was never the fault. If it is the battery, we fit a quality cell and test run-time before returning it.

Yes, and it's one of the most common repairs we do. Drift is mechanical wear in the analog stick module, not a software fault — which is why recalibrating in System Settings buys you weeks at best. We check calibration and the rail connection first to rule out the cheap causes, then repair or replace the stick module. From $35, often completed the same day. On a Switch Lite the sticks are built into the console rather than a detachable Joy-Con, but they are still a serviceable part.

Four usual causes: a damaged USB-C port ($69.99 to repair), a failed charging IC on the board ($89.99), lint or debris packed into the port, or simply a bad cable or adapter. Try a different charger and a wall outlet first, and check the port for lint using a wooden or plastic pick — never metal. If the console charges only when you hold the cable at an angle, or the port feels loose, that's the port and it needs replacing. The free diagnostic separates the four causes.

Completed Switch repairs carry a warranty of up to 90 days. The exact term depends on the repair type and the part used — a USB-C port replacement and a general maintenance service are not covered on identical terms. Your technician confirms the applicable warranty in writing at pickup so you know exactly what's covered.

Yes, all three models. USB-C port repair ($69.99), charging IC repair ($89.99) and general maintenance ($49.99) are the same price across Switch, Lite and OLED. Screen repair differs: the OLED panel is not interchangeable with the LCD units in the original Switch and Lite, so it is quoted separately. The Lite has no dock, so dock and HDMI faults don't apply to it — and stick drift on a Lite is repaired in the console body rather than in a detachable Joy-Con.

Common repairs — USB-C port, Joy-Con drift, general maintenance — are often completed the same day. Liquid damage, board-level faults and anything needing a special-order part can take one to three days, partly because liquid damage needs proper assessment time rather than a fast turnaround. You'll get a timeline with your quote, before you approve anything.

Repair wins in most cases. A $69.99 port repair or a $35 stick module against several hundred dollars for a replacement console is not a close decision when the rest of the system is healthy. Replacement becomes the better call when there's widespread corrosion from liquid damage, several major faults at once, or heat damage that has already affected multiple components. The free diagnostic tells you which situation you're in, and we'll say so plainly if replacing is the better value.

If the console is still under warranty and the fault is a covered defect, Nintendo may repair it at no cost — and if that's your situation, go to them first. Set up a service request through Nintendo's support site; you'll need your Nintendo account, the model number and proof of purchase, and their consumer service line is 1-800-255-3700. Liquid damage and accidental damage are typically not covered, and that's where an independent repair usually makes more sense.

One clean power cycle: hold the power button for about 15 seconds, wait 10 seconds, then press power again. Then charge with a known-good USB-C adapter plugged into a wall outlet — not the dock — for at least 30 minutes before trying again. A fully depleted battery can take a while to show any sign of life. If there's still nothing, it's likely the battery, the charging port or the charging IC, and the free diagnostic will tell you which.

More often the dock, which is good news because it's the cheaper outcome. Check the TV input first, reseat the HDMI cable, power-cycle the dock by unplugging it for 30 seconds, and try a different cable and TV port. Third-party docks fail considerably more often than official ones. If the console still outputs nothing after a known-good cable and a clean dock reset, bring both the console and the dock in — we test the two separately so you only pay to fix whichever is actually broken.

Sometimes, and speed is the single biggest factor. Corrosion continues spreading after the console feels dry, so a Switch brought in the same day has a materially better outlook than one that sat in a drawer for two weeks. Don't charge it, don't try to power it on repeatedly, and don't put it in rice. We open it, clean the corrosion, assess the board and tell you what's realistically salvageable before you spend anything — that assessment is free.